With March nominated as the month to celebrate women and their achievements (yes I know shouldn’t it be half the year at least, women are Half the Sky) The Local Artisan Guide has decided every week this month to highlight some women artisans in different categories starting with jewelry designers from around the world that you might not know about but are worth knowing.
We chose ten women jewelry designers who work in a range from a new twist on the traditional to contemporary to spiritual to cultural pride. There is a plethora of raw materials, stones, crystals, metals, price points and traditions explored by all these jewelers. The spectacular talent these female artisans have in their art form and imagination when it comes to jewelry is worth highlighting in a category where most of the product is worn by women. More so as many of the jewelers below also explore ways to make their work sustainable, ethical and give back to their communities.
Polly Wales
Polly Wales is the Creative Director and Founder of her eponymous brand of fine jewelry. Polly was born in London and gravitated towards the arts from a very young age. She studied sculpture in University and later taught art to juvenile offenders. However, she discovered her real passion when she began to design jewelry, making intimate wearable sculptures. She went back to school to study Jewelry Design at the Royal College of Art, where her naturally anarchic spirit combined with classical training to inspire the creation her signature “cast-not-set” process.
Casting gemstones directly into molten gold has enabled her to push the boundaries of traditional fine jewelry and produce unique collections year after year. In 2016, Polly moved the company from the rolling hills of the English countryside to the sunny grit of Downtown Los Angeles where the company is now based. She currently lives in a treasure trove of curiosities in the hills of East Los Angeles
Anna Sheffield
Anna Sheffield’s childhood in the Southwest has had an enduring influence on her work, setting the stage for a lifelong interest in natural beauty, spirituality, and all forms of art and design—from architecture to indigenous crafts. These diverse interests led her to pursue a degree in sculpture. After moving to New York City, Anna shifted her attention to jewelry, drawing upon her Fine Art fundamentals to create a singular style—elegant, irreverent, and truly original.
Claudia Desideri - Desideri Designs
Desideri design is NYC based jewelry brand founded by Roman born Claudia Desideri. Since her early age, she’s always been interested in Art and Drama and had an affinity for artistic design. After graduating at the Istituto Nazionale D'arte in Rome she moved to New York, where she attended the Lee Strasberg film and theatre institute. Her passionate creativity and love for Art and Nature finally converge in 2004, when she founded Desideri Design. Since then, she has been creating luxurious, classy but still wearable pieces of jewelry which combine both “hard” and “soft” elements, organic and futuristic materials, geometrical Minimalism and sparkling Baroque. Her collection of rings, necklaces and earrings are all unique pieces made using Swarovski crystals, natural stones and fresh water pearls.
Judith Haas
Dutch artist Judith Haas creates jewelry and fine art using gold, silver, bronze and semi precious stones. Her work is characterized by finely crafted textures and unfinished surfaces in contrast with colorful patinas that reflect her passion for art and design history and the industrial environment surrounding her Williamsburg Brooklyn studio.
Ms. Haas received a Masters degree in Physiology from the Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam (VU). She has devoted herself to her art career since 2003 and has exhibited at galleries and boutiques widely including Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, Hankyu, Tokyo.
Yanina Faour - Oleana Jewelry
Yanina Faour launched her own brand, Oleana in 2003, combining the high quality craftsmanship of her ancestors with a fresh and modern aesthetic. What sets Oleana apart its is fine jewelry collections in silver and 18K gold, with influences ranging from architecture to spirituality, to be worn at different times of the day. Ind addition to being a young businesswoman and mother, Yanina is a mentor and has an affinity and interest in the development of the female entrepreneur at all levels. She herself is a fellow of the Vital Voices Organization and the Cherie Blair Foundation for Women In Business program.
Marielise Lachapelle
New York based artist Marie-Lise Lachapelle grew up in the green suburbs of Montreal. Her love of nature, fashion, and the influence of her entrepreneurial parents have culminated into a successful career designing stunning jewelry. She creates custom high impact jewelry and a variety of collections using organic elements and shapes. Her unique combinations of flowers, precious metals, and stones, have garnered her international attention and is a favorite for editorials, celebrities and fans of her jewelry around the world
Jane D’Arensbourg
Brooklyn based designer Jane D'Arensbourg began working with glass early in her career as an artist and became greatly inspired by the unique properties of the medium, particularly as a vehicle to capture light, energy and fragility. .Jane D’Arensbourg launched her glass jewelry designs in 2002 in New York City.
In her studio, D’Arensbourg's process starts with raw, durable, borosilicate glass rods that are transformed with a torch free form. Using heat and gravity to shape the glass, the designer handcrafts one-of-a-kind sculptural jewelry. With each piece, D'Arensbourg honors the fragility and inherent elegance of the material, creating timeless and unique jewelry. Borosilicate glass is one of the most shock resistant glass available which results in it being a surprisingly wearable material. Jane D’Arensbourg views her jewelry as functional art. A ring can function as a sculptural object sitting in your home waiting to be worn and experienced in another way.
Jane D'Arensbourg has exhibited her artwork and jewelry in museums and galleries internationally. Her work can be found in esteemed stock lists from New York to Japan as well as in the permanent collection of The Museum of Art Design, New York.
Ilenia Corti Vernissage
Ilenia Corti grew up in a family of jewelers and worked as a fashion accessories designer for high luxury companies all over the world. She created Vernissage inspired by the world of nature, and the tension between the childlike awe we feel in front of its small and enchanting phenomena and the pragmatism of the adult world. The uniqueness and strong creative identity of her work has earned the enthusiastic response of authoritative magazines. Each piece is handmade by the expert craftsmen of the Santagostino company, leader in this field and owned by the Corti family.
Sewit Sium
Jeweler and educator Sewit Sium has been crafting powerful jewelry imbued with living African history for over a decade. Prior to starting her company in 2015 of the same name, she taught Fashion Activism and Design in various NYC High schools. “I used jewelry - the oldest form of decorative arts as an educational tool, as primary document to teach predominantly Black students about their living African lineage, the world and their place in it. The goal is that they view their creations as well as their bodies as sites of knowledge transmission. I want them to internalize that their creations will outlast them, to see themselves as leaders and agents of change who can transform the world of image making authority.”
Sewit’s mission and approach extends to her design practice that she hopes will be adopted by institutions such as the fashion industry, museums and design colleges alike. “it’s important for me to get as indigenous and specific as possible via symbols and motifs, I know the optimal power of jewelry is unlocked when attached to its origin story and makers - to bodies.” Sewit's goal is to create initiatives that serve the reclamation and activation of indigenous objects. “Jewelry is a point of departure, but this is about people and ideas and those who lay claim should get to decide how their culture is accurately interpreted and shared.” Sewit is dedicated to decolonizing the way jewelry is engaged with, “together we can restore it to its rightful place - as documentation, a stunning object of desire and daring catalyst for change”.
Sewit completed her MA at NYU Tisch, where her thesis was entitled Activation: Jewelry and the Body, Sites and Tools for Liberation.
Sewit's jewelry has been featured in Elle, Vogue, Bazaar, Town & Country, Vanity Fair Magazines. She created various costume design pieces for HBO Insecure as well as feature films such as Coming 2 America.
Mia Hebib - Oblik Atelier
Mia Hebib started in jewelry at the School for Applied Arts and Design in Zagreb, Croatia. Upon resettling in the United States, she attended the Savannah College of Art and Design where she received a BFA in jewelry and metalsmithing. Besides running Oblik Atelier, Mia has been instrumental in re-launching Robert Lee Morris collection as well as launching multiple high- profile fashion brands like AllSaints and Coach wholesale line. Mia has also mentored at PRATT Institute, 92nd Street Y and SCAD.
Mia creates conversation pieces and her mission is to elevate jewelry from simply existing as an accessory to becoming a wearable sculpture, an objet d'art.
Mia's studio "Oblik" means "shape/form" in Croatian and the name is echoed in each created piece. Oblik Atelier is on a quest to define the most elegant and clean line and thrust that line through a three-dimensional metamorphosis.
Oblik Atelier jewelry marries traditional metalsmithing techniques to timeless designs via fold forming, fabricating and forging techniques. Each piece is hand bend to conform to the body. Surfaces are smooth, architectural, sculptural, sinuous, voluptuous and polished. Jewelry is made in brass and finished with gold or rhodium plating.
All the above mentioned women jewelers come from around the world yet all find a way to uniquely express their vision of jewelry thus creating wearable art. Women creating for other women, a wearable badge of how a woman can express their aesthetic to the rest of the world through the media of metals and precious stones.
The Local Artisan Guide will feature a blog every week for the month of March on a different category celebrating women artisans and highlighting their contributions to the world.
By Natalie Rivera