Ethical Shopping for Black Friday

It's here, Black Friday. That day of the year that jump starts holiday shopping with cut throat sales on brands across the board. 

Whether you plan to shop at a Brick and Mortar shop or go online, The Local Artisan Guide has made some suggestions to highlight some of the many brands that now focus on ethical and sustainable products that you should know about.

BRACKISH BOW TIES is a Bow Tie brand made in Charleston, SC. No dyes are used, giving each tie a unique coloring. The feathers are all-natural and sustainably sourced. Each tie arrives in a hand-branded, pine gift box. including a list of the feathers used and instructions on how to care for your tie. www.brackishbowties.com

ROTHY'S is a San Francisco brand that created a women’s flat with low-waste, low-impact materials, hand-assembled for high quality and durability. The flats fit true-to-size and have a removable insole and 3D knit upper for seamless comfort. Machine-washable in cold, gentle cycle; air dry only. When you finally are ready to replace them simply send them to their Rothy’s recycling facility and help close the loop in making our planet a better place. www.rothys.com

ANITA DONGRE GRASSROOT is a sustainable luxury brand born to revive, sustain and empower India's crafts and artisans. The brand translates village art into design for the globetrotting woman, and showcase the handcrafted traditions of India in contemporary tales. Grassroot works with rural artisans to create local employment opportunities, empowering every village to become a self-sustaining unit. www.anitadongregrassroot.com

PATENT OF THE HEART is a handbag and small leather goods brand made in Turkey. Designer Elif Akaydin has artisans create her sophisticated collection made with the finest European leathers and materials. Patent of Heart assures you every bag purchased is not only made with high-quality craftsmanship, but with a strong sense of functionality and style. A portion of profits helps contribute to worthy cause especially helpings young girls attain an education. www.patentoftheheart.com

JOE GROOMING was established in 2002 with a goal to create a natural and organic line of hair products formulated to meet their core objective. By lowering surfactant levels in their shampoos, adding soothing, moisturizing extracts to both cleansing and styling products, and fragrancing with essential oils rather than synthetic fragrances, they have taken the first steps toward achieving this goal. Extra benefit is for every order of a Joe Grooming product, they donate a bar of Joe Grooming soap to a resident of homeless shelters across the USA. www.joegrooming.biz

EDUN is a sustainable high end fashion apparel and accessories brand that makes all its products in Africa from artisans using fair trade methods and guidelines. www.edun.com

APOLIS is a fashion lifestyle brand founded on the simple idea that people can live better lives when they are given equal access to the global marketplace. Apolis is a socially motivated lifestyle brand that empowers communities worldwide. www.apolisglobal.com

Black Friday doesn't have to be a consumer nightmare, it can be a practice in conscious shopping. Don't forget to check out your local brick and mortar shops for Black Friday and Small Business Saturday, you'll be amazed at the wonderful Black Friday sales and products you will find.

By Natalie Rivera

Ethical and Affordable Diamonds

A few weeks ago I was attending a lecture at the National Arts Club in New York City as they frequently feature talks on fashion related to a book with a particular topic and the author present to discuss and answer any questions.

This particular week they had Aja Raden, a Beverly Hills gemologist, jewelry designer and author who was discussing her New York Times Best Seller, “Stoned: Jewelry, Obsession and How Desire Shapes the World”.

That evening Ms. Raden displayed her incredible talent for story-telling as she kept her audience captivated while revealing secrets of the jewelry trade. She related true stories and amazing facts about jewelry throughout the ages. I highly recommend the book, it is a fascinating read for both men and women especially if you enjoy history, politics and stories of scandals.

Aja Raden, author of "Stoned: Jewelry, Obsession and How Desire Shapes the World”.

After the lecture I knew I had a blog topic for The Local Artisan Guide as she discussed in detail the diamond trade and all the myths and marketing secrets we have come to accept from this controversial industry.

Years ago a friend of mine who specializes in high end commodities had related to me in passing that diamonds were actually very common and not at all rare. He told me diamonds are hoarded by monopolies and that in reality they really are worth in the area of $300 a carat. He warned me not to waste my money on them should I ever be in market for a diamond. I believed him as he is at the top of his field, however I had no interest in buying high end jewelry for myself and was not looking to become engaged anytime soon so I never really thought about the topic again.

Ms. Raden confirmed my friend’s statement about the false myth of diamonds being a rarity and explained how giant monopolies such as De Beers not only horde diamonds, but through the art of advertising portray to the world a narrative that diamonds are rare stones and hard to find. 

Diamond engagement rings designed by Aja Raden.

De Beers used marketing to create and manipulate demand for diamonds from nothing. Many in advertising and marketing point to De Beers as the original creators of modern day marketing and advertising because of this very feat. It all began in 1870 when huge sources of diamonds deposits were found in the mines of South Africa. Before 1870 diamonds were a rare stone that usually found its way only to the aristocracy and the moneyed classes. British financiers purposely made up a plan in 1888 to make sure the diamond market would not be saturated and this included, 1.) creating De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd. to stockpile diamonds and control the price per carat and 2.) create demand for diamonds though advertising and marketing.

Eventually due to both World War I and World War II many fortunes of European family dynasties and monarchies were lost forever, which meant no demand and no one to sell diamonds to. De Beers decided that they would create a marketing campaign in which every family should want and desire a diamond, thus the creation of the diamond engagement ring was born. Although the concept of an engagement ring had been around since Medieval times, diamonds were rarely used as the stone of choice for the ring. Since the United States was one of the few countries during both world wars that did not lose a vast majority of their wealth De Beers focused on the US as their audience and main source of consumers.

Queen Elizabeth II's  Diamond Diadem. Diamonds were used for royal jewelry, crowns and tiaras before large sources were located in South Africa.

Before the world wars the US had little interest in diamonds especially regarding to as an engagement ring. De Beers hired Philadelphia ad agency N.W. Ayer in 1938 to research using marketing and find out what Americans thought about diamonds. They found Americans thought back then diamonds were only for the very rich. N.W. Ayer had to figure out how to convince an American, especially in tough economic times that they needed to have a diamond. What they found was that if the diamond was tied to a emotional purchase such as love and marriage, the diamond would not only be purchased but never resold (another important goal for the diamond industry). That is how the diamond engagement ring was created in the United States.

Creator of modern marketing and advertising N.W. Ayers.

N.W. Ayers cleverly instituted a marketing scheme that involved using that relativity new industry, Hollywood. At the time they had big celebrities of the day wearing diamonds and showing off their diamond engagement rings. The agency had the narrative of diamonds and diamond engagement rings written into movie scripts, radio, the press and fashion magazines. They never mentioned De Beers, they just mentioned the idea of the diamond engagement ring (it didn’t matter to De Beers since in the end they would be supplying the stone).

Hollywood was an important medium in spreading the word that diamonds are a girls's best friend. Here are four major Hollywood stars that are synonymous with diamonds. Clockwise Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe.

N.W. Ayers then started instructing how to buy a diamond making sure the general public was aware of cut, clarity and color but most importantly N.W. Ayers instituted how much a young man should spend on a diamond and gave a formula to the consumers; the diamond industry advised you should spend at least three months of your salary for the diamond engagement ring to give to your intended.

The end result of N.W. Ayer's ad campaign, the diamond engagement ring.

Then the slogan to end all slogans was created for the diamond industry, “A diamond is forever” and since then Americans and now countries around the world have bought into De Beers very successful and long running ad campaign on how every marriage proposal should include a diamond engagement ring. By developing this concept which is just about only 80 years old, De Beers managed to created value over nothing.

One of the best known advertising slogans, "A Diamond is Forever".

When Ms. Raden explained this to us, I could hear some of the gentlemen in the audience start to rumble. The man sitting behind me mumbled to his wife, “Well that is 80k down the drain.” as she tried to shush him. Today when you purchase your diamond, as soon as you exit the store it loses immediately half of its value, then it only goes down from there. So if you are spending 80k on a diamond, you lose 40k as soon as you leave the shop. Most people pride themselves in being financially savvy in their investments, in any other circumstance we would step away from such a lost of income, however the audience for a diamond seems to be unaware of their hard earned money lost forever.

Ms. Raden then displayed slides of the chemical compound that makes up diamonds. The chemical compound of a diamond is C which stands for carbon. Graphite and soot also share this chemical compound. What makes a diamond different from graphite and soot? Its called an “allotrope” which means it is a form of an element that has different physical properties (eg. color, crystal shape, hardness, melting points,  boiling points, etc.) due to different arrangements of atoms or molecules within the structure. So though diamonds share the same chemical compound, the only difference between diamonds, graphite and soot is how the C is arranged. While diamonds are one of the hardest substances on earth, graphite and soot are of course a much softer substance. 

The only difference molecular wise between diamonds and graphite is the molecular structure.

Ms. Raden also informed us that once a diamond is mined it starts to “soften up.” Of course this takes many decades but eventually you can expect your diamond to start chipping away, perhaps not in your life time but don’t expect your great, great grandchildren to inherit a diamond that cannot be damaged. 

Ms. Raden advised the audience if they were seeking to purchase a diamond that she would recommend that they either 1.) get it from a pawn shop as there are many diamonds in good condition available for a small fraction of the price they were originally purchased at. 2.) purchase a diamond grown in a lab.

A great place to find recycled jewelry at a great price is in a pawn shop.

Ms. Raden as I mentioned earlier is a gemologist. She related that not only is the lab grown diamond equal to a mined diamond, a seasoned jeweler cannot tell the difference between a lab grown diamond and a mined diamond. They would need special tools in which to determine the light ranges in each particular diamond (using these tools requires a hefty price in the first place). Most lab grown diamonds have “lab grown” lasered on in the bottom. They are not of the family of cubic zirconia they are the same chemical compounds and chemical arrangement as mined diamonds. They are not fake.

Lab grown diamonds obviously jeopardize the diamond industry and the sense of rarity they have worked hard for the general public to believe. De Beers, diamond jewelers and others that rely on mined diamonds will try their best to dissuade the public from purchasing lab grown diamonds by out and out lies and deception. That is to be expected as it is a multi-billion dollar business. They will tell you that mined diamonds are “rare” and lab grown diamonds are “fake” both false statements.

In the last few decades a few jewelry brands have been marketing a “conflict free diamond” meaning that it is not a blood diamond as the diamond trade is one of the most conflict-filled industries in the world with blood, greed, enslavement, corruption and pollution on its hands. In order to distance themselves from this negative press, many brands have stated their diamonds are conflict-free which means they have followed “The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme”. The Kimberly Process Certification Scheme was developed by the UN and outlines the regulations and requirements countries must follow to make sure a diamond is mined and shipped in a humane, legitimate way. Diamonds that meet these regulations are shipped with a Kimberley Process certificate. When you buy a conflict-free diamond, the jeweler should be able to provide this certificate -- if they can't, you should be wary of the stone's origin. Brilliant Earth is a highly recommended brand with high ethical standards for mined diamonds.

The original mine in South Africa where large deposits of diamonds were found and are still mined, Kimberly Mine.

However as you can surmise a conflict-free mined diamond is still a mined diamond. Mining always brings devastation to an environment no matter what the substance being mined for. So the question is if you can buy a diamond that does not harm the environment, is of excellent quality and has a significantly lower price point than a traditionally mined diamond (forgot to tell you that little fact), shouldn’t that be the logical choice?

Instead of spending 10k on a diamond, you can spend 2k for the same stone, save the rest of your money for your honeymoon, new home, children, travel, a rainy day, etc. No one would know the difference. You would just have to release your mind from a sales narrative created 80 somewhat years ago that we all have fallen for.

When I started to research brands that offer lab grown diamonds I was impressed not only by the product and the ridiculous savings in cost, but that they run their businesses in a transparent and ethical manner you see missing from the diamond industry (actually most industries). 

Diamond Nexus is such a company. Diamond Nexus houses their facilities in Milwaukee, Wisconsin and is proud to offer a product made in American paying their workers fair living wages. They hired old-school master goldsmiths and jewelry-making artisans who believed in quality and make the jewelry right there in their workshops. The company prides itself on its customer service and their customer ratings are quite positive. Best of all they pass on the savings of having a lab grown diamond to you the consumer.

Just one of the many diamond engagement ring designs at Diamond Nexus.

One other benefit of lab grown diamonds is that they can be used in industry for tools in a manner that passes on the low cost of the diamond to the customer. The fact that the environment will not be harmed is a mere bonus as lab grown diamonds have a drastically lower rate of carbon emissions.

Lab grown diamonds.

Ms. Raden will be coming out with two addition books for an overall jewelry trilogy (“Hammered” and “Rocked”). She had the courage to reveal the dirty secrets from her field and to give a ethical, conflict-free solution to purchasing jewelry, especially diamonds. She has given the customer the ability of not only purchasing stones in a knowledgeable, ethical manner but also saving themselves a substantial amount of money by not buying into a false narrative propagated by a corrupt and gluttonous industry.

By Natalie Rivera

The Downward Spiral of Bleecker Street

In doing my research for The Local Artisan Guide, I spend many a day pounding the pavement, walking up and down streets looking for artisanal and smaller brands to feature in our guide. Lately I have been updating a multitude of closed stores which has set off an alarm for me regarding the neighborhoods that occupy both well known brands and smaller artisan brands. Most surprising is on Bleecker St. in the West Village where for the past fifteen years the area had morphed from a bohemian hotspot into a mini version of Fifth Avenue but now resembles a scene from a Rust Belt town. 

A trip down Bleecker Street, West Village, New York City.

Walking down Bleecker St. in the West Village from where it starts on Hudson Ave. to Sixth Avenue is a very disconcerting sight. With the amount of closed storefronts you would think we are in an economic depression or the neighborhood has a high crime rate, however this is not so on both accounts. On separate blocks there is up to a 30 to 40% vacancy rate of shops that once occupied a very trendy, busy street. I have been observing the abandonment of Bleecker St. for the last few years but now with the amount of brands continuing to close there is no denying the ramifications and negative effects of gentrification. 

To explain the situation it’s best to know the history of Bleecker Street. Bleecker St. in the West Village was once the epicenter of a very bohemian part of downtown New York City. Walking down the streets of this part of the city in the 80’s and 90’s you would find mom and pop shops, bodegas, delis, ethic restaurants, laundry mats and diners. There were local bookshops, cafes, jazz clubs and records shops dotted throughout Bleecker. It was the ideal formula of a real neighborhood where your daily needs were met. Rent for a shop back then could be an estimated $1500 a month making it affordable for small businesses to prosper.

It's not only retail stores that have been affected by the rent hike, restaurants too are closing.

Then in 1996 the bohemian character of Bleecker St. started its permanent demise changing little by little the landscape of Bleecker St.. The way this happened is an odd narrative starting with the opening of a bakery.  Magnolia Bakery opened their doors on Bleecker St. in 1996. They sold very beautiful classic American desserts, the kind that would make Martha Stewart proud (plus they tasted of buttery deliciousness). Magnolia Bakery became especially popular when it was featured on a “Sex and the City” episode which helped start the cupcake craze and the even worse craze of people lining up around the corner for baked goods. There was even at one time a Magnolia bouncer! 

Bleecker Street resembles towns in middle American known as the "Rust Belt" with their empty shops.

It was around then that the people over at Marc Jacobs started taking notice of the quaintness and character of the West Village and Bleecker St. area and decided over a span of time to open up as many as six separate Marc Jacobs shops instead of one huge flagship (which they already had in Soho). That inspired the landlords in the area to bring up the rents on Bleecker St. where before stores that had a $1500 rent saw it dramatically climb up to $7000 and then eventually a few years later to $45,000. All the new brands were gentrifying the neighborhood which resulted in property values and taxes starting to increase.

One by one iconic neighborhood businesses, restaurants and jazz clubs had to leave as their rents hikes became astronomical. They either went out of business or had to relocate to other neighborhoods. Where less than a few years ago the rents were $75 a square foot, they were now going for as much as $800 a square foot. In turn landlords held out for high end brands to move into their empty storefronts and they did. This in turn led to residential rents going up in the neighborhood. The residential gentrification of the West Village saw the artists, writers, LGBT crowd and more bohemian long time residents having to leave their homes if they did not own them or they were not rent stabilized. In then came in their place the men of finance and the girls of Conde Nast. The whole of Bleecker St. was evolving with brands such as Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Mulberry, Reiss, moving in and setting up a vanity location — meaning it’s more about the image than about retail sales or foot traffic.

Bleecker St. is the land of broken dreams for brands both big and small.

Bleecker St. became the “it” place to go however over time it was observed that there were never many people actually shopping at these smaller vanity locations. Although Bleecker St. attracted many tourists with the hype, they seemed to preferred to do their shopping elsewhere. Eventually these vanity locations with corporate money backing them started figuring out this particular business model was not working for them. As the rents continued to increase after their leases were up, one by one many of the brands starting quietly closing up their Bleecker St. locations. Marc Jacobs's six boutiques on Bleecker closed down to two shops. The abandonment of these brands makes Bleecker St. look like the land of broken dreams which is not the image one wants for their brand.

Bleecker St. looks like towns with economic depression or high crime rates, but its really current feeling the effects of "high rent blight".

These rent increases are commonly referred to as “high rent blights” which is described as when rising property values, usually understood as a sign of prosperity, start to inflict damage on a city’s economy. One would think that if you loose a commercial tenant you are galvanized to find another commercial tenant as soon as possible and negotiate a better rent, however landlords have no problem keeping a storefront empty for months or even years on end. In NYC there are tax benefits for the owner of empty storefronts. These benefits were created to help landlords out of times of economic depression but now they are used to to make it possible to hold out to eventually land a much richer tenant like a bank or national chain. The fact that together all these empty storefronts destroy the character and morale of a neighborhood while also not providing businesses that make living in a neighborhood more convenient and functional such as a deli, hardware store or dry cleaners are of no concern to these landlords. 

You might ask what a blog and site that’s main goal is to help guide you to shop smaller brands and local artisans might care about what happens to Bleecker St. and their mass retailers? Well it’s that we are witnessing other neighborhoods that are destinations for smaller businesses in New York City seemingly in danger of following this same pattern that has occurred on Bleecker Street. 

Stores that can make it easier for the residents to live in the West Village such as delis, dry cleaners and hardware stores cannot afford the rents on Bleecker Street.

In Soho on Thompson St. just in the last two months there has been a multitude of closing of both new and old storefronts. Thompson St. has been a very idyllic street for small businesses. It alone can be the perfect role model for how a neighborhood can function with great small restaurants, delis, cleaners and small artisanal storefronts that sell a wide range of products and services. Yet Thompson St. is starting to have that same look of Bleecker St. with papered up stores and “Store for rent” signs. Two small storefronts that closed recently actually had new tenants right away, however being on the same block they offer the same service, that of a barber. The writing is on the wall as it will be hard enough to keep one barber open on one block much less two. There are harbingers that more streets of Soho, Nolita and Chelsea are experiencing the same dramatic closing of storefronts. I estimate that over 30% of storefronts in the East Village are closed. It’s hard enough for small businesses to survive when they are competing against other larger brands and not being on the beaten path, just add astronomical rents and that will just be the nail on the coffin.

Currently NYC is in a residential building boom but over 80% is for luxury units whereas developers claim it is not profitable to build for middle to low income housing. For years it has been forewarned of the long term ramifications of gentrification on New York City as, “Inequality in housing has reached Dickensian dimensions” . “Among our largest, richest 20 metro areas, less than 50 percent of the homes are affordable.” The middle class is being squeezed to the edge as the rich drive up real estate values and the working poor are shoved farther into squalor… wealth and power get their way without regard for the impact on the lives and neighborhoods of everyday people.”1

Jane Jacobs, an author, sited fifty years ago in her well known book on the subject, The Death and Life of Great American Cities,  “The point of cities is multiplicity of choice. Cities have the capability of providing something for everybody, only because, and only when, they are created by everybody.” The lost of a sense of community where the wealthy are isolated in their multi-million dollar dwellings is the warning here and it is already happening in certain neighborhoods in New York City.

One solution lately that we are witnessing is the opening of large indoor and outdoor markets that will  be explored in the next blog. Though markets are by far a new concept, in this day and age they are proving to be the key to a small brand’s survival. Many brands have given up on having a brick and mortar store of their own for now so they are participating in a communal way with large outdoor and indoor markets around various neighborhoods in the city. Some interesting shopping communities have sprung up in other neighborhoods due to the rent blights in Manhattan such as Williamsburg, Lower East Side, Dumbo, Cobble Hill, Park Slope, Long Island City and Red Hook to name a few as rents are more affordable there. If these neighborhoods can become more aware and proactive in preventing rent blights in their areas it may just solidify that Manhattan is no longer the epicenter of artisanal shopping.

To end on a somewhat hopeful note, the last two years of Bleecker St. has seen some stores opening up; they are mostly national and international beauty and cosmetic brands such as Aesops, Sisley, Fresh and Bond No.9 (Bleecker St. may soon go by “Beauty Lane”), also some pop up shops and short term leases help keep the landscape from looking like total retail devastation. Enfold and Orla Kiely, two international brands looking to drive up their image in the states have opened recently so who knows what the future is in store for Bleecker St.? Maybe next year or so our site will write a blog entitled, “The Upward Spiral of Bleecker St.”.

By Natalie Rivera

Footnote                                                                                                                                                1. Moyer & Company, The Long, Dark Shadows of Plutocracy, November 28, 2014

Sustainable Fashion Brands to Watch

 

With Trump announcing to the world that he is pulling the United States out of the Paris Climate Agreement, an immediate reaction reverberated around the globe of disbelief and incredulity that the United States who has for decades been on the forefront of innovation, science and industry has abandoned its leadership role due to the politics of a man trolling the planet. 

Some people just want to set the world on fire (with polluted coal).

Luckily the vast majority of countries (and to the contrary the United States) are not dying dinosaurs and have a desire to be on the path to sustainability knowing that it is the future. Cities, governments, corporations, farmers, communities and small businesses have been finding ways to make our future more sustainable and eco-friendly and will continue to do so regardless of Trump’s proclamations.

There are some large retailers known for their eco-friendly stance such as Patagonia, Burton’s and Eileen Fisher. Adidas and Stella McCartney just announced they were debuting collections made from recyclable plastics from the ocean, however there are many smaller and lesser known brands built on their dedication to sustainable fashion. Being aware and shopping these brands will help the planet so The Local Artisan Guide is highlighting four brands in the fashion world that go above and beyond for sustainability and accountability while also creating a stylish, well made product.

Rothy’s

Rothy’s is a footwear brand that creates stylish, sustainable flats for women out of recyclable water bottles. Rothy’s has figured out how recycled plastic water bottles can be transformed into a comfortable knitted shoe that fits like a glove and is soft like a sock. Founded by Stephen Hawthornewaite and Roth Martin (two industry outsiders) and based in San Francisco, their goals was to "Create an alternative, versatile shoe: one with the ease of a sneaker but with the polish of a feminine flat. And do it with low-waste, low-impact materials, hand-assembled for high quality and durability.”

Rothy's

Rothy’s shoes are almost like glorified socks as you can wear them, walk in them, spend all day in them then throw your Rothy's in the wash (cold water, gentle cycle, gentle detergent), and let them air dry. They come in an array of colors, patterns and toe shapes (only flats though) and share such qualities as: recyclable, an earth friendly carbon free rubber soul, recycled water bottle construction, washable quick dry technology, flexible sole and upper, blister-free seamless knit, lightweight all day wearability, moisture wicking all weather comfort, reusable packaging plus when you feel they are at the end of their wear you can send them back to Rothy’s to be recycled at their recycling facility.

Rothy's

Rothy’s basically seek to make a comfortable product with the least amount of carbon footprint possible yet still be fashionable and stylish with the feel of luxury. 

Rothy's

Matt & Nat

The name of this vegan brand from Montreal may sound like two friends named Matthew and Natalie (or Nathaniel) getting together and deciding to start a sustainable footwear and handbag brand (that’s what I thought). However Matt & Nat stands for MAT(T)erial and NATure meaning to explore the synergy between the two, the reflection of one on the other.

Matt & Nat

Established in 1995, Matt and Nat was created with the idea from the start to not use leather or any other animal-based materials or products in their designs. With every passing year they have continued to explore new innovative ways to remain sustainable and eco-friendly. This includes experimenting with different recycled materials such as recycled nylons, cardboard, rubber and cork. Since 2007, they have been committed to using linings only made out of 100% recycled plastic bottles. Matt & Nat have also recently introduced recycled bicycle tires to their collections.

Matt & Nat

Matt & Nat have also adopted a very eco-friendly production and work environment. Their factories operates by the SA8000 standard and their goals are to make this standard a bigger part of their production going forward. The factories are socially compliant and the brand makes an effort to keep to PU (polyurethane) instead of PVC as PVC is much more harmful to the environment. Not only are Matt & Nat's customers getting the cutting edge of ethical and eco-friendly fashion. Their materials are consistently improved and updated with composites that are less harmful for flora and fauna.

Matt & Nat

At the office in Montreal, Canada they have made it a ‘cruelty free’ zone with monthly staff celebrations of vegetarian potlucks and vegan cupcakes. They encourage community volunteering for their employees and would like you to upcycle any Matt & Nat product when possible. 

However the most impressive feat that Matt & Nat offer is their design aesthetic which will have you not missing leather goods at all. The brand offers handbags, footwear, wallets, small vegan goods and men’s bags. They manage to cover all the latest styles, trends, colors all while putting out their own unique form. 

ECOALF

ECOALF is an outerwear lifestyle brand for men and women founded by Javier Goyeneche in 2012 after years of frustration with witnessing the excessive use of the planet’s natural resources and the amount of waste produced by industries around the world.

ECOALF

Absolved to create a fashion brand that is truly sustainable ECOALF states “Our goal is to create the first generation of recycled products with the same quality, design and technical properties as the best non-recycled products. That way we show there is no need to use our world’s natural resources in a careless way”.

ECOALF uses a few key materials while producing their products: recycled water bottles are crushed into plastic flakes which then are processed and spun into a rough polyester and then fashioned into a yarn for the fabrics, straps, laces, etc. ECOALF has used up to 70 million recycled water bottles in their production thus far. 

ECOALF

Recycled cottons and recycled wools save water as 1kg of convention cotton needs 2500 liters of water. ECOALF uses the recycled cottons and wools in their outerwear, accessories and knits.

ECOALF also uses recycled fishing nets which are transformed into a fiber used for the swimwear. Used tires are compressed into a material for flip flops, and used coffee grinds are spun into a thread that produces a water repellant fabric used for jackets.

Their store is not only designed to maintain sustainable eco-friendly standards but stands as a place for the community to meet for conferences, exhibitions, screenings, etc. all within ECOALF philosophy. 

ECOALF's Madrid store.

ECOALF also has started a foundation, The ECOALF Foundation is a non-profit organization whose primary goal is to promote the selective recovery, recycling and revaluing of waste in order to prevent its adverse impact on the environment. This is achieved through the development and application of new scientific and technological advancements – especially with regard to plastic waste products that are found in the marine environment.

For all that ECOALF strives to provide as a sustainable fashion brand, they know if you design outerwear, apparel, bags, shoes, swimwear and flip-flops that its all a waste of time and materials if you produce a product no one finds stylish enough to wear. ECOALF proves you do not have to have a hippie sensibility for sustainable fashion as they create cutting edge fashion with an aesthetic that leans to minimal chic and fashion forward. The brand is growing and starting to do projects outside of Madrid however their online store means ECOALF is available worldwide for those looking to expand their sustainable fashion closet.

BOTTLETOP

The Bottletop Fashion Company is a handbag and accessories brand that sprung from the Bottletop Foundation which was founded by Cameron Saul and his father Roger (Founder of British luxury fashion brand Mulberry) through a design collaboration with Mulberry. From the foundation came a handbag made from recycled bottle tops in Africa that was lined with Mulberry leather in Europe. The bag created a lot of buzz and generated local employment and raising funds for grass roots education projects in Africa.

Bottletop

This bag was followed by another bag designed by Bottletop’s Co-Director Oliver Wayman who discovered the "Bellani", a stunning silver chain mail bag with a distinctly 1970’s feel in Brazil. With the lightweight material, the bag consisted of upcycled aluminium ring pulls held together by crotchet. The bag is made by artisans in Brazil and has lead to the Bottletop Fashion Company being established in 2012 to create a brand that funds the operation of the Bottletop Foundation, which uses contemporary art and music to raise funds and awareness for education projects that tackle delicate teenage health issues such as HIV/AIDS, drug abuse and teenage pregnancy. The Bottletop Foundation supports young people in Malawi, Mozambique, Rwanda, Brazil and the UK.

Bottletop's "Bellani Mini" made from upcycled Aluminum ring pulls.

As a foundation they frequently collaborate with other well known brands such as Narcisco Rodriguez and Idris Khan. The design and quality by Bottletop are a work of art for the craftsman and consumer alike. Their philosophy is “Blending design with technique across cultures, Bottletop creates collections that celebrate true craftsmanship. A timeless ‘created by hand’ aesthetic. The creation of Bottletop products not only enhance the techniques of some of the most highly skilled artisans from around the world but our training programs enable others to join them, supporting themselves and their families in the process”.

One of Bottletop's many artisan workers.

The brand offers handbags, travel bags, backpacks, clutches, accessories, etc. The aesthetic looks and feels luxurious and contemporary even with the aluminum rings pulls. When you chose a Bottletop bag you are not only purchasing a piece of artisan craftsmanship, you are helping the environment by choosing recyclable materials and contributing to a foundation that helps disadvantaged youths with their community and health.

These are four good brands to start your sustainable fashion closet. Larger brands are starting to take notice of the big, innovative ideas these smaller brands are contributing to the world and proving sustainable fashion is not only a real possibility but a stylish option that benefits all.

By Natalie Rivera

Out of the Box Hostess Gift Ideas

This weekend is Memorial Day weekend in the United States and that marks for Americans the unofficial start of summer. In New York City that means a mass exodus on Friday to either the Hamptons or Upstate to escape the chaos of the city. Many of us that do not own weekend homes end up being the guests of those who do and that is when we offer up to our host or hostess a Hostess Gift.

In this day and age it is sorry to find out that many people do not even know what a hostess gift is much less give one when they are entertained in someone’s home. For those who do not know simply put a hostess gift is a gift for your host or hostess to thank them for their hospitality. It can range from flowers, specialty food items to small items for the home (I don’t include wine because I feel that wine is going to be consumed that evening by either themselves or other guests). 

Giving hostess gifts has become a lost art, especially in city environments. Most people in cities complain that their abode is too small to entertain properly and therefore chose to meet friends at restaurants or bars instead. The Local Artisan Guide would like to help bring back this forgotten show of manners and help inspire you to not only think of out-of-the-box items for hostess gifts but to give you an incentive to host a soiree at your home to be on the receiving end of a hostess gift (no matter what size your home is, it’s inconvenient location or your sticky roommate situation). 

The Local Artisan Guide has come up with a few selections of unique, creative hostess gifts in all price ranges from stores around NYC (many items can be ordered online too) that should inspire you anywhere you live to make a thoughtful impression on your host/hostess and reward them for courageously entertaining in this day and age.

Pearl River,  395 Broadway, Tribeca, NYC

Pearl River Mart is a treasure chest of items mostly from China that range from home decor to hard to find Chinese spices. What most shoppers appreciate about Pearl River is how affordable most of the items are. It is not unusual to find a well known decorator browsing through the aisles of Pearl River for party or decor inspiration. A thoughtful hostess gift suggestion from Pearl River Mart is a Daruma Doll. A Daruma Doll is a doll that helps the receiver of the gift set an intention for a wish fulfillment. The different colors represent different wishes i.e. success, love, health, etc. The Daruma Doll has two blank eyes, when you received a Daruma Doll you make your wish, fill out one eye, set the doll in a place you see daily and when your wish is fulfilled, you fill out the other eye. Think of yourself as the genie from Aladdin helping your host achieve their wishes!

Daruma Doll from Pearl River, $8.95

CW Pencil Enterprise, 100a Forsyth Street, Lower East Side, NYC

CW Pencil Enterprise is a store dedicated to the art and beauty of pencils. It is a mecca for affordable gift giving, including truly original hostess gifts. The shop is petite but filled with exquisite pencils from around the world and the accessories that go with them ranging from stationary, to notebooks to well designed erasers. A gift that is a stand out for a hostess gift is a Plantable Pencil. Sprout pencils are capped with a bio-degradable capsule containing non-gmo seeds. The pencil itself is a high-quality, cedar-cased #2 but once you've worked it down to a stub you can stick it in the pot of soil (just covering the green capsule on the end). Be sure to water regularly and keep in a sunny place and your plant is sure to germinate. Once the seeds are securely in the soil you can use the remainder of the pencil as a plant marker (so sustainable!!). This 3-pack contains flowers for a very yellow garden. Includes one of each: Marigold, Sunflower, Calendula. Perfect for the host that has a green thumb and access to sunlight. 

Plantable Pencils - Flower Power, CW Pencil Enterprise, $7

Coming Soon,  37 Orchard St. Lower East Side, NYC

Not only is Coming Soon a great place for contemporary furniture and gifts, they already took the time to curate a section of hostess gifts for you making it much easier to just come in and select right away. The contents in this shop are a little bit more pricier but worth it as it will be guaranteed your host/hostess will treasure the selections from Coming Soon. A fun item that stands out is their Domino Set with Spinners. These luxe dominoes are not only stunning enough to find a place on the coffee table for show but they add an activity that guests can participate in on game night. The design elements in this set makes these dominoes meant to be displayed and played. They come with jumbo tournament size two-tone dominoes with spinners in a variety of colors. A little pricey at $180 but that’s a small price to pay for doing game night in style.

Dominoes Set with Spinners, Coming Soon, $180

Kaas Glassworks, 117 Perry Street, West Village, NYC

Kaas Glassworks is a one of those rare New York stores that you either find by meandering down a street or a friend is kind enough to let you know of its existence. They specialize in the traditional art of decoupage that features images of antique and historical prints. This includes a collection of trays, plates, coasters and paperweights which are both decorative and functional, each piece may be used on a table or dresser, or displayed on the wall with the use of a simple plate hanger. The range of images makes selecting a gift a little time consuming as there is so much to chose from. We highlighted here a tray with an image of vintage hygienic underwear for its unique factor. This particular tray is $142 but for a hostess gift that is functional and a work of art, that is a bargain.

Decoupage Tray, Kaas Glassworks, $142

Hopefully these items have inspired you to not only shop for that Hamptons weekend or dinner party coming up but perhaps to buy in stock for future hostess gifts to come. These gifts are guaranteed to have you invited back time and time again. Let’s reward those brave, generous souls who go out of their way to make us memories by wining, dining and entertaining us.

By Natalie Rivera

Who Made My Clothes

In our modern day, first world society we as a post-industrial population are so removed from the sources of our most basic needs that we have become completely not capable of surviving on our own. In the last few years many documentaries and books have come out detailing where our foods come from and the eye opening often scary journey to our table. Now the same movement is occurring in fashion in which many are shining a light on where and who makes our clothing, shoes and accessories. 

#whomademyclothes

As a former production manager for retail fashion, I’ve traveled all over the world visiting the factories where the product I was overseeing was being manufactured. I was fortunate to work for companies that were socially compliant however that did not erase my thoughts on how the lifestyle of the workers half a world away from me went about their six day work week and their day to day life. It usually involved living far from home in small dorms, long days mostly standing on their feet working on machinery, doing tedious, receptive work for low wages, little time off and not much room for growth. It takes a special mindset to do this work and most U.S. citizens would not find this attractive for the same reason why the United States has trouble finding U.S. citizens to harvest our crops (a job usually reserved for migrant workers brave enough to risk getting deported).

Factory workers in China.

When Donald Trump says he will bring back the jobs to the United States, it is already too late for most industries as automation is the future. With fashion it would involved building a new infrastructure, purchasing expensive, complicated machinery, training and keeping a staff that would have to be competitive with the rest of the world and the low cost employment they provide. That shirt you pay $20 for would now be $80. In our fast food culture we have become used to a fast fashion business model for the past decades changing the purchasing patterns of fashion that our parents and grandparents did not have access to.

In honor of the Rana Plaza factory collapse, where 1,138 people were killed and many more injured on 24th April 2013, Fashion Revolutionary Week has been created with the hashtag #whomademyclothes to put a spotlight on the individual life of factory workers around the world and humanize your shopping experience. 

Emergency workers rescuing survivors from the Rana Plaza factory collapse April 24th, 2013.

“Who Made My Clothes” encourages people worldwide to demand greater transparency, sustainability and ethics in the fashion supply chain. Fashion Revolution seeks to unite the fashion industry and ignite a revolution to change the way fashion is sourced, produced and purchased so what the world wears has been made in a safe, clean and fair way. More information on this organization can be found at www.fashionrevolution.org.

The Local Artisan Guide has been spotlighting local artisans, independent designers and small brands who provide a “Slow Fashion” experience, meaning they create a product that is meant to last not only your lifetime but hopefully for many generations to come. When you purchase from a local artisan you know who created your items and can rest assured knowing you are not contributing to a sweatshop environment where exploitation, safety issues, child labor and extremely low wages are a part of the factory’s worker daily life. 

                                 Artisan block printer working on John Robshaw Textiles. 

So next time you are about to purchase an item ask yourself the following questions:

1. Would I wear/use this item multiple times a month?
2. Who made this particular item?
3. Is it made well and are the materials biodegradable? 
4. What country did it originate from? Is it a fair trade and ethical source?
5. Does this brand have transparency in their sourcing and production?

Our society is now dealing with the growing problem of land fills being overrun with clothing that is not decomposing as brands such as H&M, Zara, Gap Inc., etc. are creating products not made well enough to last with synthetic materials and fabrics that do not decompose. These remnants of fast fashion are the new “disposable diapers” of the 21st century and you can help by being a more conscious shopper whether by shopping brands that are more sustainable, upcycling your clothes, shopping for vintage pieces and keeping yourself just as informed as you would for your food. In the end it isn’t only you and factory workers who would benefit from shopping more ethically but everyone else and our planet.

So join us in using the hashtag #whomademyclothes when reviewing brands on social media to help create a safer, transparent and more sustainable environment for all.

By Natalie Rivera

Local Artisan Valentines Day Gift Recommendations

Its here! That time of the year when you are highly encouraged to show your bae that you really care about them with greeting cards, chocolates, dinner at an overcrowded, trendy restaurant and a little trinket to seal the deal whilst donning racy lingerie. 

We here at The Local Artisan Guide have come up with some gift recommendations for those who want to celebrate this day of love with style and panache. The selection below is available online (click the link) and at their brick & mortar store. We did the legwork and sought out the greeting cards, chocolates, trinkets and sexy lingerie in a range of price points (Goop we are not!). We did leave the restaurant choice to you.

The recommendations are divided into three groups: for her, for him and unisex gifts. All recommendations are highly curated, sure to please, unique and thoughtful because in the end that is what we all seek from a gift from a loved one. 

GIFTS FOR HER:

Kempton & Co., Small Leather Pouch, Black, $52

Kempton & Co.'s pouches are great for multiple uses whether its for storing your cosmetics or using the pouch as a clutch for the evening out.

Pierre Hardy Shoes, Memphis Sandal, Mutli Nude, $795

Pierre Hardy Shoes are sexy, au courant and at the same time very lady like. 

Maison Close Black Feather Fan, $90

Let me entertain you! Imagine the surprise on your lover's face when you enter into the boudoir with this burlesques feather fan and...well not much else!

Gurhan Jewelry, Amulet Pendant in 24k gold with cabochon ruby. $2,400

If you are going to go all out and give jewelry to your Valentine, think out of the box with this ruby amulet that will make her think of the middle ages, poetry and being serenaded on a balcony.

 Le Labo Fragrances, Rose 31, eau du parfum, $175

Le Labo is a special fragrance brand as you can work on creating your own scents, however their Rose 31 scent is the perfect Valentines Day scent as it is reminiscing of walking in a rose garden.

Soapology, Fresh Cut Soap, Chamomile, $8

What a special way to show someone you think they deserve the best without emptying your wallet. The natural ingredients and fresh cut soap is not only good for your skin but makes for a beautiful item to add to a bathroom.

 

 

FOR HIM:

Ernest Alexander, Andy Leather Laptop Brief, Brown, $295

This sleek and handsome leather briefcase not only carries your computer in style, the side pocket can carry an iPad and the inside pockets easily hold a man's iPhone, wallets and pens.

Noah Waxman, Hyde Park, Tobacco, $595

Here is an innovative way to do color block on a man's shoe that looks like it can go from day to evening in style.

goorin bros., Rooster BBL, $30

You don't have to go into credit card debt to give your man a gift that is unique, fun and you know they will use often.

Larsson Jennings, Lugano Collection, $275

A timepiece is always a hit as a Valentine's Day gift and to have it at this price point is a win/win for all.

Fellow Barber Signature Candle, $60

Your man will appreciate this multi functioning gift as it will make his place smell like a cypress forest and when its done he can use it as a cup. 

Santa Maria Novella, Latte Corpo Uomo, Men's Body Milk, $96

If your man is a history buff he will appreciate this body lotion made from the finest ingredients with a formula used for past centuries for men all over Europe.

 

UNISEX GIFTS:

Taschen, "The Little Book of Pin Up, Vargas", by Dian Hanson, $9.99

What a sexy gift to flip through before you end your Valentine's Day evening.

 Marie Belle Chocolates, 16 piece Caramel Box, $40

These chocolates are so beautiful you may not want to eat them but their innovative flavors will change your mind.

Greenwich Letterpress Valentines Day Card, "Brain on Love" $5

Forget Hallmark, come to Greenwich Letterpress to find Valentines Day cards with wit and romance that you know are also unique at the same time.

So hopefully our recommendations have given you some ideas that will lead to an evening of unconditional love, lust and items you and your bae will cherish forever. 

Happy Valentine's Day!

By Natalie Rivera

The Truth Behind Counterfeit Stock

The Local Artisan Guide is fortunate enough to be based in downtown Manhattan, in the neighborhood of Soho which has great energy, stores, restaurants and some of the best residences in New York City. Soho is also surrounded by hotels, where you see countless tourists everyday exploring all New York has to offer. Usually their country’s currency is good for shopping in the United States so they have researched ahead of time premier shopping destinations that will give them more bang for their buck (or Pound, Yen, Euro). Soho, Century 21, Nolita, Williamsburg are on their list for shopping and finding great bargains however unfortunately so is an area right next to Soho which is Chinatown. 

Chinatown is a great destination in New York City to go to for delicious, affordable food, groceries, cultural shock and wares from Asia. However Chinatown is a destination for many tourist for all the wrong reasons.

Bus loads of tourists make their way to Canal Street and Chinatown every day in New York City to look for inexpensive souvenirs of NYC which are aplenty but even more notorious in this part of town is that Chinatown, especially Canal Street is the mecca for counterfeit products.

Handbags, luggage, watches, fragrances, sunglasses etc. are all counterfeit. They are copies of the most well known international brands in the world; Prada, Gucci, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Tumi, etc. Street hawkers will whisper to you as you go by to look at their wares, they will even invite you into backroom areas to see more high end product they swear are real. If you walk away they will start haggling with you to close the deal.

A view of the counterfeit shops that line Canal St. in Chinatown, NYC and their wares. Hopefully froggy is legitimate.

If you think for one second that the product is genuine or it doesn’t matter purchasing counterfeit products, let me remove all doubt and ignorance so you don’t even begin to justify that you are just getting a bargain or paying what you think is fair and the large multinational conglomerates will not miss a penny.

Counterfeit fragrances sold on Canal St., Chinatown, NYC.

The main bulk of the counterfeit products come from China. China is a master of illegally counterfeiting product. As most mass retailers have their products made in China, there is a culture of factories replicating and selling the products domestically and internationally at a dramatic cut cost in black markets across the world. Many so called reputable factories in China will produce legitimate products legally and near by have a sister factory producing the same stolen designs and intellectual property illegally. 

Counterfeit handbags and watches sold on Canal St., Chinatown, NYC.

As a former product development manager who had to travel frequently to Asia to review the product I was developing, I saw whole shopping plazas in China with stores that were all counterfeit. I even once found a store in China that had the name of the brand I was working for even though we did not have a brick and mortar store in the United States. As I looked into the windows of the closed shop, I saw a mixture of our handbag designs and their own designs but with our leathers and fabric patterns. The shop actually looked quite nice and luxurious. However it was all counterfeit. There was a fake Donna Karan shop, fake Calvin Klein, fake Pucci, etc., etc..

Here is what you are contributing to when you buy counterfeit items; besides depriving well known brands of your money for their products, when you buy counterfeit you are contributing to child slavery, dangerous work conditions, poor salaries with workers that have little or no rights plus a multitude of other labor violations. You see, when a factory is illegal there is no regulation of any kind. It is a sweat shop where the government or social compliance auditors cannot oversee to make sure there is a safe, humane labor practice occurring. 

Do not try to fool yourself for one minute that this is not the case no matter what the hawker will tell you. Unfair circumstances that we cannot imagine happening are occurring all over the world and when you buy counterfeit product you are not only contributing to it you are encouraging it.

Some of the counterfeit handbag brands sold on the street on Canal St., Chinatown, NYC.

All over the world there are areas like Canal St. that specialize in selling counterfeit items. Once while I was in Florence, Italy walking down one of the streets that legitimately sold the high end accessories brands of the world, I noticed right after the shops closed, immigrant hawkers came and laid out the same counterfeit bags that you saw in the store windows on the ground and for a fraction of their retail cost. It was very bold. Yet still counterfeit.

There are even seemingly nice, legitimate stores in Soho that have a mix of genuine vintage high end handbags and what they claim are an overstock of “it bags”. These bags are very easy to fool even a trained eye. They have quality raw materials, follow the designs of “it bags” and copy the packaging of the bags to the tee. They even have the cards with the certification copied down expertly. If you see a vintage Chanel that you are quite sure is legitimate, why wouldn’t you think the Celine bag that is just a few feet away, still in new condition not real? Be warned these bags are not $100, they are sold for over $1000 and more as they are claiming the product is new or overstock. Remember if its too good to be true, it usually is.

Police raids on vendors selling counterfeit product on Canal St., Chinatown, NYC.

There are frequent raids on Canal St., but the norm is to see sellers are out in the open hawking their wares which makes a tourist think that this is quite legal. However you as the shopper can also get in trouble for obtaining illegal counterfeit product so is it really worth it? Some countries in Europe will give you a ridiculously high fine if they catch you with counterfeit product when you come into customs. If you have any questions on whether a product is counterfeit or not, you can call customer service of the brand you are questioning or Google as there are many articles and sites that teach you how to determine if a product is legitimate or not and how to avoid counterfeits.

So whether its a keychain, handbag, watch or whatever you see hawked on Canal St., Chinatown, (or anywhere around the world that have similar markets) The Local Artisan Guide wants you to remember if you read this article you now know the truth and your decisions are now informed decisions. What kind of world that you would like to contribute to?

No excuses.

By Natalie Rivera

Five Women's Staple Pieces for Slow Fashion

Recently at a holiday party a guest complimented me on my black tuxedo pants. I confessed to her that I had them for longer than I cared to admit, it was a Vivienne Tam investment piece I acquired for myself when I was much younger. The pants were on sale and once I tried them on I decided it would be one of those clothing staples I would always cherish. 

That got me to thinking about the pieces in my wardrobe that I have owned for years yet have remained fashionable and timeless. The Local Artisan Guide is a big advocate of "Slow Fashion". We encourage shoppers to invest in pieces that you know are going to be in your wardrobe for so long, you may to ward off your daughter and friends from trying to “borrow” them from you. 

After rummaging through my closet and asking some friends whose styles I have always admired for their feedback, I came up with five “Slow Fashion Staples” that every woman would benefit from having in their wardrobe. These are pieces that should be executed well and made with quality materials. Whether you find them at Prada or your local artisanal boutique they need not cost a fortune but will always be worth the investment in the long term.  With comparison shopping online or using The Local Artisan Guide you can find quality staple pieces that will act as your contribution to sustainable shopping which in the end in has a positive domino effect and benefits our planet. Here are my five top recommendations:

Black Tuxedo Pants:  I love how men look in a tuxedo. I can’t believe there was an era when men wore them daily which makes me realize I was born at the wrong time. Men have been wearing tuxedo pants for centuries and looking rather consistently divine so why shouldn’t we women follow suit? No pun intended! My black tuxedo pants go with everything from a white button down blouse to my animal pattern cape. I can wear it with boots or any type of dress shoe and it looks elegant and put together. Its a no brainer and perfect for any formal event or evening out. 

                                           Trina Turk Black Tuxedo Pants

Sheath Dress:  On everyone’s list of "must have" items usually a LBD (little black dress) makes the top of the list. Although I definitely agree an LDB is a must, I feel you can have more range by owning a sheath dress. One of my first big purchases when I was younger was a sheath dress from Giorgio Armani. It is powder blue, the cut is quite classic and the material is of such high quality I am always immediately complimented when I wear it. The dress is actually an incentive for me to stay in shape as I would hate to not be able to wear it any longer. A sheath dress can be any color that compliments you best, it doesn’t have to be just black. It is great for interviews, presentations, formal events and can go from day to evening. Accessories will always make it look fresh and modern. Make sure the material and cut are flattering to your figure or it will defeat the purpose of the purchase.

                                              Ava-Aiden Sheath Dress

Navy Blazer:  As one who loves to wear Breton stripe shirts in the summer, I discovered that navy blazers were very complimentary to this look. I was fortunate to purchase an affordable Ralph Lauren navy blazer with brass buttons and it has been one of my style staples since then. My blazer is immaculately tailored and very sliming. I love how it goes from high to low and elevates any outfit. I can wear it for work (over my sheath dresses) yet it looks great with jeans and a white tee. Its part of my uniform for when I travel making me look fashionable yet comfortable (not an easy feat when traveling). 

                                                                        J. Crew Navy Blazer 

Statement Necklace:  I own a red beaded coral statement necklace that was made on a loom that came from a small island in the South Pacific. The color is vibrant and the weave is very unique. When I wear the necklace I am constantly asked where I got it from and on numerous occasions have had people offer to buy it from me right off my neck. It helps bring any outfit I have to life and is always a conversational piece. Whether its from your grandmother, a local jeweler, an accessories shop or a vintage store; a statement necklace, especially one that is finely crafted and not overtly trendy will be one of those investment pieces that can help bring your outfit from day to evening. Many local jewelers will even work with you on custom pieces that will make sure your statement necklace is original to you and your vision.

            Kenneth Jay Lane Statement Necklace

Vintage Bag:  When my stepmother’s mother passed away, my stepmom was kind enough to pass onto me her mother’s silver beaded flapper’s purse. I use it for galas and special events and can be assured no other woman in the room is carrying anything as lovely and special. In a society where women (and some men) use high fashion brand handbags to state to the world their net worth and self value, nothing to me is more confident and stylish than a woman proudly toting a bag that is either vintage or from a smaller more artisanal designer. To be assured that your handbag does not define you but reflects your unique fashion sense is a sign of a person who has truly mastered their own unique style and marches to the beat of their own drummer. Simply acquiring “it bags” makes a statement that emanates more from the ego and not your own sense of self which at length reflects the person you are. Vintage bags and smaller artisan brands are not only original in design but make for great sustainable slow fashion items. 

             Art Deco Rhinestone Handbag from Etsy

So when shopping and trying to figure out if you are growing your "Slow Fashion" wardrobe, just ask yourself these few questions.  Are these items made to last? When I am dead and gone will people be fighting over these items? Does this piece always make me feel good about myself? Can you see the piece as timeless and classic? Are you "IN LOVE" with this particular item and can see yourself years from now filled with regret if you walked away from it? Well if you answer yes to any of those questions, you are on your way to growing your Slow Fashion wardrobe and growing a more sustainable world around you. 

By Natalie Rivera

We Are Going Live...

But we still have quite a ways to go. 

Almost a year is upon us as we started social media for The Local Artisan Guide and we are now going live to show you some of the neighborhoods in New York City that we have been exploring and carefully curating for the discerning shopper. More neighborhoods will be added in the future and more stores, boutiques, artisans and smaller brands will be added on a daily basis. 

Plus besides Brick & Mortar shops will be soon be adding on a daily basis a "Local Artisan Brand" which are brands that operate with an online site or are wholesale. Future cities both domestic and overseas will be added and we are currently working on our app. The app will help you not only find the artisan of your choosing but will help you organize your speciality shopping finds, be apart of a rewards program, use your social media to highlight your finds and most of all shine a light on artisans, sustainability and giving back to the community. We are designing the app to be fun to use and share.

In the meantime please follow us on social media (links below), join our newsletter and any feedback, comments, questions inquiries will be greatly appreciated.

We will start having more blogs, interviews and video added to our site plus collaborations and promotional events.

We are very excited and we hope you are too. So if you don't want to walk in a room and find someone else dressed the same as yourself in head to toe Prada, are environmentally conscious of the impact "fast fashion" has in our world and love being an individual in your style both in fashion, beauty and home we are the site for you. 

Natalie Rivera

Founder, The Local Artisan Guide

Design Theft

The Local Artisan Guide

Design Theft

Last night Ivanka Trump walked onto the stage to the tune of "Here Comes the Sun" (much to the dismay and disapproval of George Harrison's estate) and while she spoke on behalf of how her father Donald Trump was going to make "America Great Again" and his plan to help small businesses, we thought it very hypocritical of Ivanka Trump as her lifestyle brand has been guilty on occasion of practicing the same corrupt methods of her father. Many small business will attest to how the Trump Organization will use their services and then pay a small percentage of their invoice if anything at all causing many businesses to practically collapse or have to let go of employees. Trump Organization assumes that small businesses do not have the funds for a long protracted law suit and bully their clients into accepting little or no pay for their services. Ivanka Trump is apparently a chip off the old block as her brand has been publicly called out and has a few lawsuits against them for design theft.

Ivanka Trump entering and addressing the RNC to George Harrison's "Here Comes the Sun". More like "Here comes Trouble".

One of the problems of being a local artisan in today’s world is design theft.

Having worked in the corporate retail fashion industry for almost twenty years in the production and product development arena, this site is familiar with the workings of how large fashion brands create and develop their product. 

In the first stage of designing a collection for larger brands the designer is sent on a shopping trip for aspiration and inspiration samples (i.e. other brand’s products). Some brands send their designers on adventures to be inspired by nature, cultures and architecture. However most brands go to Europe or Asia and shop for items of clothing, accessories or jewelry that will be part of their samples for inspiration. 

A good designer would take one aspect of something they found on their trip and elevate and/or appropriate the idea to make it their own and within the aesthetics of their brands. It could be a pattern from an expensive piece of vintage wear, a dress from another brand, a piece of jewelry or a button from a low cost brand. Researching on the internet or catalogues has made seeing what is being offered globally much easier for most brands. The design team then creates inspiration boards which reflect trends, materials and color palettes that everyone has agreed to work from to form a cohesive style statement.

However especially in the last few years we are seeing well known brands that are high end or brands that specialize in mass production at low price points blatantly steal the ideas and designs of smaller, local artisans. Brands such as Zara, Banana Republic, H&M, Ivanka Trump and ASOS have knocked off designs of smaller brands without even changing much of the original design. Its not designing just another nude pump or t-shirt, it’s very intricate designs that are being copied detail by detail.

I have heard from many smaller brands that they do not let in other brands in their showrooms or even let buyers or merchandisers come in as they just steal their ideas and designs and have them created elsewhere. This isn’t only for clothing, its footwear, accessories, home decor, jewelry plus other areas of design. Many smaller brands are vulnerable to other designers just coming into their shops and downright stealing their ideas and designs.

These larger brands have access to legal teams and count on the “grey area” of stealing intellectual property from other brands. They rely on the fact that for the most part the local artisan does not have a budget for a legal team to sue for design infringement. Due to this atmosphere there is rampant theft of intellectual property that does not go challenged in the design world domestically and internationally.

While many may appreciate seeing a Gucci or Balmain knockoff in Zara now within reach of their budget they are ignorant that they, the customer contribute to the problem. They remain unaware that many (not all) of the designs they are purchasing are not original and hurt the business of the original designer whether it is high end couture or local artisans. 

Much of the blame can be laid at the hands of the venture capitalist who have acquired most of the well known brands you recognize. These investors don’t want to hear that fashion is fickle, they want a return on their investment and for them part of that is laying a very structured design process that doesn’t breed originality. They want a sure deal. Their buyers, sales teams and merchandisers have numbers on what worked and what didn’t so the design team starts out with limits placed upon them even before the design process begins. There are very few brands today that are design driven instead of merchant driven. The big business of corporate fashion is one of the reasons there are so many local artisans out there as they left corporate fashion to design their own lines and bring originality back to their trade. 

With the advent of social media, it has been a great tool to put a spotlight on when these infringements happen. Just recently the very artisanal Italian shoe brand Aquazzura has decided to take legal action against the Ivanka Trump brand for blatantly stealing their footwear designs. The style in question is very intricate and it was copied in its entirety. Of course in typical Trump fashion they denied they copied Aquazzura’s design however since the design was quite original Aquazzura feel they have a good case against Ivanka Trump and ask to cease and desist and take the product off the shelves (the main action a brand asks another brand to do when there is design infringement). The Ivanka Trump line also in the past was taken to task by Derek Lam for copying a footwear design that was quite original and not to be mistaken as a design coincidence. 

Here is an example of Ivanka Trump's brand blatantly stealing from the smaller more artisan Italian artisan brand Aquazzura.

What is curious about this particular Aquazzura style is that Zara, Banana Republic and ASOS also copied this design yet they have not been sued as of now for design infringement. Aquazzura also is currently suing Marc Fisher for design infringement for another style that again was quite original and hard to believe it was a design coincidence. 

One of the problems with corporate fashion and design is that most brands follow very similar processes and trend reports which makes it definitely plausible to have designs that are very similar. If you walk down Broadway now in Soho nearly every mainstream brand has white eyelet clothing and dresses with men’s shirting patterns in similar color palettes. This design process is what the larger brands are counting on for their defense legally as to why their designs are similar to others.

Ironically no one gets as upset or puts more money to stop being copied than the larger, well known retail brands as so much of their production is made in China. The counterfeit problem there is of massive proportions as the Chinese love owning well known brands. There are plazas in China that resemble upscale malls where all the product is actually all counterfeit. The brands get very upset and invest a lot of money to try and prevent factories from copying and distributing “their designs” as they rightly resent the lost of potential revenue. However that is exactly how the local artisan and smaller brands feel too when their designs are copied.

My recommendation for smaller artisans when they see their designs copied by other brands (especially their more intricate, original designs) are to send a cease and desist letter to the brand and use social media to highlight the design infringement. Once its out in social media that a certain brand is stealing designs it is hard to get rid of that reputation and these days reputation is everything. 

In the meantime feel free to let The Local Artisan Guide know when this happens and we will be more than happy to shine a light on the matter. If we don’t let them get away with it in the first place this will be a diminishing problem in the design world however we all need to work together in the first place. And to the general public, as a customer you need to take on your responsibility of not shopping in places that you know are guilty of design theft. As for designers, wouldn’t you rather your work be an original? As Oscar Wilde use to say, “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.”