KINDERHOOK, NY AN UPSTATE BUDDING ARTISAN HAVEN

The title says an upstate budding artisan haven. Fact is Kinderhook, was discovered by Henry Hudson in 1609 as he sailed far up the Hudson River on an exploratory trip. There are a few theories on how Kinderhook got it’s name one being is that Henry Hudson saw many Native Americans of the Mohican tribe playing on the bluffs, thus Kinderhook, meaning “children’s corner” in Dutch was given to this small town. Kinderhook was an important stage coach stop on the way to Albany and the town’s European Colonial heritage was steeped in artisan traditions from its founding. Not to disregard the artisan skills of the Mohicans who originally settled the area.

Surrounded by the townships of Chatham and Ghent, Kinderhook is probably known best by its most popular historical resident, the late President Martin Van Buren who was born in Kinderhook and retired there after his public life at his historical home, Linderwald which is a National Historic Site today. This charming small town is having a revival of artisanal boutiques, renovated inns and an explosion of the arts and culture.

In the center of Kinderhook is a bronze statue of its most well known resident, Martin Van Burn. He seems really little.

One of the highlights of Kinderhook is the renovated boutique hotel Old Dutch Inn which is situated in the heart of the village of Kinderhook on 8 Broad Street. Build in 1820, Old Dutch Inn was originally a shoe shop, private dwelling and a public hall. With time the building became an inn under the names of Kinderhook Inn, Lindenwald Hotel, Petrillo's Inn, Van Buren Inn and most notably and recently, Old Dutch Inn. Each guest room is named for an element of the building's or surrounding area's history. About 20 years ago a family lovingly restored the inn which includes 9 rooms that have an eclectic mixture of American Colonial and contemporary decor.

The Old Dutch Inn is in the heart of Kinderhook village surrounded by equally charming buildings which include The Kinderhook Bookstore.

Right across the Old Dutch Inn is a bagel and sandwich shop that would be at home on any street in Brooklyn, New York, Broad Street Bagel, Co. The building had a renovation in 2012 bringing all the original character back and with that a 150 year old bagel recipe. Broad Street Bagel Co. sells a wide variety of kettle boiled bagels, hot and cold beverages all in an Old World charm.

A is for Artisan, as in artisanal bagels from Broad Street Bagel Co.

Right around the corner from Broad Street Bagel Co., we have the Kinderhook Knitting Mill, which consists of a group of buildings that was originally an old knitting mill first build in the 1870’s. It was the idea of restaurateur Yen Ngo and artist Darren Waterston to bring art and food to Kinderhook during the pandemic and their mission is, “The businesses housed in the Knitting Mill, almost entirely owned and operated by women and people of color, run the gamut from an Indonesian-inspired restaurant to an art gallery to a curated general store. The ethos of The Mill is one of cooperation and collaboration that is evident in the connective thread that ties everyone together in the shared goal of cultivating a thriving village center to nourish the community.” The businesses include OK Pantry which is a concept general store with a dash of bodega and built to encourage a place to come and sit and get to know your neighborhood whilst kiddos and your pets are welcomed too. Right next door is Morning Bird Cafe serving a variety of pastries, along with made-to-order breakfast and lunch. Morning Bird Cafe is an extension of the highly acclaimed restaurant, The Aviary and bar The Nest, both located on 8 Hudson Street in Kinderhook Knitting Mill. Right next door is Village Yoga and Blake Realtors just in case you are looking for a home in the surrounding area.

This charming block included OK Pantry, Morning Bird Cafe, Village Yoga and Blake Realtors.

Yoga and pastries! A winning combination.

Around the corner of Blake Realtors, the Kinderhook Knitting Mill continues with a pop up of the Shaker Museum which was an important community in Kinderhook and influenced furniture making in America since its conception. Female owned Damsel Garden is a gardening shop which is committed to regenerative agriculture and the strong community it helps build.

The Kinderhook Knitting Mill buildings around the corner from Blake Realtor.

Walk a few steps down and you will encounter Still Life, a beautifully curated selection of art, objects and vintage clothing that feel like a hidden jewel box of items at quite reasonable prices.

The beautiful facade of Stillife.

A selection of the art, artifacts, home decor and vintage clothing available at Stilllife.

A WW2 vintage Japanese buoy at Stilllife.

Stilllife’s exquisite selection of items.

Native American artifact available at Stilllife.

Artifacts and Artforums at Stilllife.

Next door to Stilllife is 2 Note a perfume and beauty brand created by perfumers who are also musicians. This highly ethical made in America brand has created an entire collection inspired by the creation of music (my favorite fragrance was Adagio). This perfume boutique is a delight to walk through with vintage musical instruments sprinkled along the minimal decor that also offers bath and body, skincare and home fragrances.

The quaint entrance to 2 Note.

A selection of the fragrances at 2 Note.

Bottling the fragrances of 2 Note.

Perfume and Music are synonymous at 2 Note.

2 Note Bath and Body selection.

2 Note’s candle selection.

2 Note offers travel sizes for their fragrance collection.

The last shop you will find is at Kinderhook Knitting Mill is The Kinderhook Bottle Shop which has been awarded the best wine shop in 2022 and 2023 covering multiple counties in upstate New York by the Rural Intelligence Awards. They are, “A thoughtful, fun and highly curated wine shop in the heart of historic Kinderhook, NY, led by a NYC Sommelier (who tastes every bottle) raised in the Hudson Valley.” and we agree as we were delightedly surprised by the selection of small independent wine and spirit brands that represented both local and international vineyards and distilleries. The shop encourages you to not only learn about wines but to hang out by their beautiful fireplace and get to know your neighbor (wine always helps!!). The ethos of the shop is “A focus on naturally made wines from artisanal producers and a selection of craft spirits and ciders with special attention to local and NY state as well as female and minority producers.” And the best part was how affordable their selection was. My traveling companions were happy to find a delicious and affordable kosher wine for Passover.

The cheerful entrance to The Kinderhook Bottle Shop.

One of the best things that have happened to Kinderhook in the recent years is the explosion of art and culture, with new art galleries and art exhibition spaces popping up. Two of notable mention are The School: Jack Shaiman Gallery and Bill Arning Exhibitions. Jack Shaiman is a renowned gallerist from New York City who has exhibited famed artists for decades. Bill Arning is a curator and former director of White Columns, an exhibition space for emerging artists in New York City. Both men have taken advantage of repurposing large spaces for artist exhibitions and cultural events in Kinderhook. Their presence alone makes Kinderhook a very happening town when it comes to the forefront of contemporary art in the Hudson Valley.

Jack Shainman has repurpose an old school into The School for large scale art exhibitions and a place for his artists to create their work.

Bill Arning Exhibitions will exhibit art shows curated by famed curator Bill Arning.

A fun little map of Kinderhook and just a few of the places and activities to enjoy while visiting.

Besides having a beautiful visit to Kinderhook and the stunning Hudson Valley there are so many more places to visit, eat and see art in Kinderhook. We found this fun map pictured above which includes the Kinderhook Farmers Market. Kinderhook is a two and a half hour drive from New York City and a twenty minute drive from Hudson, NY where the Amtrak train goes to from NYC. A bus also takes you from NYC to Kinderhook (3 1/2 ride). There are many towns near Kinderhook that are also teaming with artisans, good food and art including Hudson, Chatham, Old Chatham, Redhook, Kingston and Ghent. With increasing rents in New York City many creatives are taking advantage of having a quality of life not afforded in New York and have reignited the local artisans of New York.

By Natalie Rivera

ARTISANAL SHOPPING IN SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, MEXICO

The Local Artisan Guide had the pleasure to travel to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico late February and the beautiful Mexican town did not disappoint on any level!

San Miguel de Allende is a colonial-era town in Mexico founded in 1541 by 16th century friar, Juan de San Miguel and Ignacio Allende, a martyr for Mexican independence. San Miguel de Allende is located in the far eastern part of the state of Guanajuato and is about a three hour drive north of Mexico City. San Miguel de Allende has been chosen continuously as one of the most beautiful towns in the world as it is home to baroque architecture, stone lined streets, top notch boutique hotels, world class Mexican and international cuisines and multiple shops and markets that display and sell the artisanal crafts, foods and spirits from all over Mexico.

A view down Calle Aldama of the Parroquia De San Miguel Arcangel.

The Local Artisan Guide was here both for business and pleasure staying in a charming villa owned by one of the many American ex-pats who now make San Miguel their home. We stayed about a five minute walk from the Rosewood Hotel, which is one of the most prestigious and beautiful hotels in San Miguel de Allende. From the Rosewood Hotel is about a eight minute walk into the center of the town and its magnificent churches, plazas and manicured parks.

Sunset on my balcony on Calle Grillo.

A night view of San Miguel de Allende from the rooftop of the Rosewood Hotel.

After a few days of walking around you learn to get around town by using the churches as your landmarks. The villas and dwellings all have impressive and unique handmade doors that lead to magical homes with courtyards and gardens decorated with the crafts of the artisans who all throughout the towns of Mexico. The Catholic Church sought out to organize the towns and villages throughout Mexico to specialize in their own craft and skills, that way they would not be competitive with each other. From textiles, to ceramics, pottery and furniture, San Miguel de Allende is a haven for the aesthetic eye. Every corner is an Instragramer’s dream, a place where artists come to paint. As a matter of fact San Miguel de Allende has long attracted artists from all over the world, thanks to the Instituto Allende, a renowned art school where many of their students including many expats chose not to return home as San Miguel de Allende is first and foremost a community known for its art, beauty and charm.

The magnificent doors of the Museo Casa del Mayorazgo de al Canal.

The streets and homes of San Miguel de Allende are an artist’s dream.

I started first walking around February 13th and thought all the hearts I saw around town were in occasion of Valentine’s Day. However I found out the sacred heart was declared to be the symbol of San Miguel de Allende as San Miguel de Allende is considered to be the heart of Mexico. So if you are looking for a romantic place to be for Valentine’s Day you can’t go wrong with this city of hearts.

Hearts are everywhere in San Miguel de Allende.

Most of the roads are made with stones, so flat comfortable walking shoes are imperative. The workmanship to make this beautiful town centuries ago does not go unnoticed as the indigenous Mexicans were the main builders of all the churches, buildings and roads through hard physical labor and craftsmanship.

The stones of Calle Aldama are typical of the streets of San Miguel de Allende.

Although San Miguel is mostly affordable for Americans (thus why many retire there) it is an expensive city for Mexico. I found it pricey until I found the more affordable food markets and artisan mercados. Since it is such a destination for expats, wealthy Mexicans and tourists many shops thrive in San Miguel de Allende. It is also home to many galleries as the overhead to run a gallery is far less than in other art cities around the world.

A colorful selection of produce at the Mercado Ignacio Ramirez.

Shopping at the Mercado Ignacio Ramirez is a feast for all the senses.

I thoughly enjoyed myself in San Miguel de Allende as a tourist and an arts and craft lover. The town is very safe (although when traveling please exercise caution everywhere) and there wasn’t a great amount of harassment by vendors. There are some beggars in along the streets so I always have some spare local currency to give out. Most of the town is gainfully employed as there are so many shops, restaurants, hotels and private homes to work at so the population is a mostly friendly and respectful one. If you are following a Google Map watch out because the town suddenly becomes very hilly as half of it seems to be located on a steep incline. I didn’t need the gym during my visit at San Miguel de Allende as between walking and climbing the steep streets I met my Apple Watch’s exercise quota.

One of San Miguel de Allende’s many hills on the way to the San Miguel Mask Museum.

The entrance to the San Miguel Museum of Masks.

Visting in the winter during February makes dressing for San Miguel de Allende a little tricky as in the morning and evening it gets chilly. It can go from the high 30’s to 50’s in the morning/late evening to 70’s and 80’s with a strong Mexican sun shining on you. I had odd cool weather when I first arrived with some rare rain followed by very sunny days going into the high 70’s. So dress in layers if you are planning to visit San Miguel de Allende. I was advised to wear cashmere as its a great way to keep warm in the early part of the day and not be impossibly hot as the sun comes out.

Cashmere sweater for a slightly chilly start of the day.

My meals were exceptional in San Miguel de Allende with many Mexican dishes I had not heard of that were rich in moles and tortillas (the town smells like fresh tortillas which is lovely), however I have to say my favorite meals were from the housekeepers of the American homeowners that I visited in San Miguel de Allende. One can get very spoiled living in San Miguel de Allende.

Rustica is a local favorite especially for breakfast in San Miguel de Allende.

Having Molletes for breakfast at Rustica.

Panio was my favorite bakery in San Miguel de Allende.

The following is a photo diary of some of my highlights of visiting San Miguel de Allende featuring some of my favorite shops, boutiques, hotels, mercados and arts & crafts.

Antique shopping on Calle Ancha de San Antonio.

Skulls and tin art are commonly found in the shops of San Miguel de Allende.

Calle Pila Seca is great shopping street for clothing and home decor. La Modernista is a boutique I highly recommend.

La Modernista clothing boutique.

The colorful selection at La Modernista.

Mixta is another beautiful boutique on Calle Pila Seca I highly recommend for clothing, craft and home decor.

The magnificent entrance to Mixta.

Miata’s courtyard is common to the many beautiful courtyards in private homes and hotels in San Miguel de Allende.

Mixta has many rooms throughout their store with a mix of clothing, textiles, home decor, furniture and crafts.

The bells of the Parroquia De San Miguel Arcangel are hand rung by two men to a tune.

These puppets are a permanent fixture near the church.

Marquesa de Mancera was my favorite store for home decor.

The entrance to Marquesa de Mancera.

Marquesa de Mancera has beautiful arts and crafts from all over Mexico.

Olinala Boxes

Arte Huichol

The painted gourds of Marquesa de Mancera.

More objects at Marquesa De Mancera.

Trinitate Galeres de Artes is store to go to for your beautiful Mexican gardens and courtyards.

An example of their exemplary pottery.

The courtyard of Trinitate Galeres de Artes.

More amazing crafts at Trinitate Galeres de Artes.

Heading out Sabina Curandera for an art openings and posing by one of the majestic doors of San Miguel de Allende.

Inside Sabina Curandera and testing out the mezcal.

La Fabrica la Aurora is a large market just outside the center of San Miguel de Allende for antiques, art, clothing boutiques, textiles and home decor.

Here with textile artist Nelly Lorenzo at La Fabrica la Aurora.

Nelly’s loom for creating her textile art.

Nelly Lorenzo’s textile art.

Cantadora Antigrasavedades Antique Store

Alligator Candelabras

The selection at Cantadora Antigrasavedades.

A new spin on the iconic skulls of Mexico at Galeria Vandiver.

The Mercado de Artesanias is a fabulous artisan market with affordable crafts, textiles, pottery, ceramics and more.

The many shops of The Mercado de Artesanias.

Affordable textiles from Oaxaca.

Mexican Barbieland?

Mexican toy store.

Affordable pottery and ceramics galore.

Enjoying the company of Avocado the mule.

I caught a Big Fat Mexican Wedding with a horse and carriage, a mariachi band and ten caballeros on horses.

And a smaller wedding. San Miguel de Allende is a popular wedding destination.

Had an evening cocktail at a friend’s home watching the sunset on their beautiful house on the hill.

Having another evening cocktail at another amazing home on the hill the next day.

La Parada had great Peruvian food. Here is a gigantic amethyst at the table.

Casa Dragones is an incredible place for mezcal, but lots of $$$.

Just a few of the doors of San Miguel de Allende.

The door knockers were quite unique too.

San Miguel De Allende I will be back! Actually I will be back next year as I was invited to speak at a seminar next year at the El Instituto Allende on a talk on artisans and the lost arts which I will let you know when I have dates.

I hope you enjoyed my photo album of San Miguel de Allende. I had such a lovely time I took over 800 pictures so doing this edit wasn’t easy. I will have this week a video on our YouTube channel on an artisan walk through town. I do encourage you to visit if you appreciate artisan craftsmanship, beautiful architecture, good food, mezcal, amazing weather and friendly people.

By Natalie Rivera