The Local Artisan Guide had the pleasure to travel to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico late February and the beautiful Mexican town did not disappoint on any level!
San Miguel de Allende is a colonial-era town in Mexico founded in 1541 by 16th century friar, Juan de San Miguel and Ignacio Allende, a martyr for Mexican independence. San Miguel de Allende is located in the far eastern part of the state of Guanajuato and is about a three hour drive north of Mexico City. San Miguel de Allende has been chosen continuously as one of the most beautiful towns in the world as it is home to baroque architecture, stone lined streets, top notch boutique hotels, world class Mexican and international cuisines and multiple shops and markets that display and sell the artisanal crafts, foods and spirits from all over Mexico.
A view down Calle Aldama of the Parroquia De San Miguel Arcangel.
The Local Artisan Guide was here both for business and pleasure staying in a charming villa owned by one of the many American ex-pats who now make San Miguel their home. We stayed about a five minute walk from the Rosewood Hotel, which is one of the most prestigious and beautiful hotels in San Miguel de Allende. From the Rosewood Hotel is about a eight minute walk into the center of the town and its magnificent churches, plazas and manicured parks.
Sunset on my balcony on Calle Grillo.
A night view of San Miguel de Allende from the rooftop of the Rosewood Hotel.
After a few days of walking around you learn to get around town by using the churches as your landmarks. The villas and dwellings all have impressive and unique handmade doors that lead to magical homes with courtyards and gardens decorated with the crafts of the artisans who all throughout the towns of Mexico. The Catholic Church sought out to organize the towns and villages throughout Mexico to specialize in their own craft and skills, that way they would not be competitive with each other. From textiles, to ceramics, pottery and furniture, San Miguel de Allende is a haven for the aesthetic eye. Every corner is an Instragramer’s dream, a place where artists come to paint. As a matter of fact San Miguel de Allende has long attracted artists from all over the world, thanks to the Instituto Allende, a renowned art school where many of their students including many expats chose not to return home as San Miguel de Allende is first and foremost a community known for its art, beauty and charm.
The magnificent doors of the Museo Casa del Mayorazgo de al Canal.
The streets and homes of San Miguel de Allende are an artist’s dream.
I started first walking around February 13th and thought all the hearts I saw around town were in occasion of Valentine’s Day. However I found out the sacred heart was declared to be the symbol of San Miguel de Allende as San Miguel de Allende is considered to be the heart of Mexico. So if you are looking for a romantic place to be for Valentine’s Day you can’t go wrong with this city of hearts.
Hearts are everywhere in San Miguel de Allende.
Most of the roads are made with stones, so flat comfortable walking shoes are imperative. The workmanship to make this beautiful town centuries ago does not go unnoticed as the indigenous Mexicans were the main builders of all the churches, buildings and roads through hard physical labor and craftsmanship.
The stones of Calle Aldama are typical of the streets of San Miguel de Allende.
Although San Miguel is mostly affordable for Americans (thus why many retire there) it is an expensive city for Mexico. I found it pricey until I found the more affordable food markets and artisan mercados. Since it is such a destination for expats, wealthy Mexicans and tourists many shops thrive in San Miguel de Allende. It is also home to many galleries as the overhead to run a gallery is far less than in other art cities around the world.
A colorful selection of produce at the Mercado Ignacio Ramirez.
Shopping at the Mercado Ignacio Ramirez is a feast for all the senses.
I thoughly enjoyed myself in San Miguel de Allende as a tourist and an arts and craft lover. The town is very safe (although when traveling please exercise caution everywhere) and there wasn’t a great amount of harassment by vendors. There are some beggars in along the streets so I always have some spare local currency to give out. Most of the town is gainfully employed as there are so many shops, restaurants, hotels and private homes to work at so the population is a mostly friendly and respectful one. If you are following a Google Map watch out because the town suddenly becomes very hilly as half of it seems to be located on a steep incline. I didn’t need the gym during my visit at San Miguel de Allende as between walking and climbing the steep streets I met my Apple Watch’s exercise quota.
One of San Miguel de Allende’s many hills on the way to the San Miguel Mask Museum.
The entrance to the San Miguel Museum of Masks.
Visting in the winter during February makes dressing for San Miguel de Allende a little tricky as in the morning and evening it gets chilly. It can go from the high 30’s to 50’s in the morning/late evening to 70’s and 80’s with a strong Mexican sun shining on you. I had odd cool weather when I first arrived with some rare rain followed by very sunny days going into the high 70’s. So dress in layers if you are planning to visit San Miguel de Allende. I was advised to wear cashmere as its a great way to keep warm in the early part of the day and not be impossibly hot as the sun comes out.
Cashmere sweater for a slightly chilly start of the day.
My meals were exceptional in San Miguel de Allende with many Mexican dishes I had not heard of that were rich in moles and tortillas (the town smells like fresh tortillas which is lovely), however I have to say my favorite meals were from the housekeepers of the American homeowners that I visited in San Miguel de Allende. One can get very spoiled living in San Miguel de Allende.
Rustica is a local favorite especially for breakfast in San Miguel de Allende.
Having Molletes for breakfast at Rustica.
Panio was my favorite bakery in San Miguel de Allende.
The following is a photo diary of some of my highlights of visiting San Miguel de Allende featuring some of my favorite shops, boutiques, hotels, mercados and arts & crafts.
Antique shopping on Calle Ancha de San Antonio.
Skulls and tin art are commonly found in the shops of San Miguel de Allende.
Calle Pila Seca is great shopping street for clothing and home decor. La Modernista is a boutique I highly recommend.
La Modernista clothing boutique.
The colorful selection at La Modernista.
Mixta is another beautiful boutique on Calle Pila Seca I highly recommend for clothing, craft and home decor.
The magnificent entrance to Mixta.
Miata’s courtyard is common to the many beautiful courtyards in private homes and hotels in San Miguel de Allende.
Mixta has many rooms throughout their store with a mix of clothing, textiles, home decor, furniture and crafts.
The bells of the Parroquia De San Miguel Arcangel are hand rung by two men to a tune.
These puppets are a permanent fixture near the church.
Marquesa de Mancera was my favorite store for home decor.
The entrance to Marquesa de Mancera.
Marquesa de Mancera has beautiful arts and crafts from all over Mexico.
Olinala Boxes
Arte Huichol
The painted gourds of Marquesa de Mancera.
More objects at Marquesa De Mancera.
Trinitate Galeres de Artes is store to go to for your beautiful Mexican gardens and courtyards.
An example of their exemplary pottery.
The courtyard of Trinitate Galeres de Artes.
More amazing crafts at Trinitate Galeres de Artes.
Heading out Sabina Curandera for an art openings and posing by one of the majestic doors of San Miguel de Allende.
Inside Sabina Curandera and testing out the mezcal.
La Fabrica la Aurora is a large market just outside the center of San Miguel de Allende for antiques, art, clothing boutiques, textiles and home decor.
Here with textile artist Nelly Lorenzo at La Fabrica la Aurora.
Nelly’s loom for creating her textile art.
Nelly Lorenzo’s textile art.
Cantadora Antigrasavedades Antique Store
Alligator Candelabras
The selection at Cantadora Antigrasavedades.
A new spin on the iconic skulls of Mexico at Galeria Vandiver.
The Mercado de Artesanias is a fabulous artisan market with affordable crafts, textiles, pottery, ceramics and more.
The many shops of The Mercado de Artesanias.
Affordable textiles from Oaxaca.
Mexican Barbieland?
Mexican toy store.
Affordable pottery and ceramics galore.
Enjoying the company of Avocado the mule.
I caught a Big Fat Mexican Wedding with a horse and carriage, a mariachi band and ten caballeros on horses.
And a smaller wedding. San Miguel de Allende is a popular wedding destination.
Had an evening cocktail at a friend’s home watching the sunset on their beautiful house on the hill.
Having another evening cocktail at another amazing home on the hill the next day.
La Parada had great Peruvian food. Here is a gigantic amethyst at the table.
Casa Dragones is an incredible place for mezcal, but lots of $$$.
Just a few of the doors of San Miguel de Allende.
The door knockers were quite unique too.
San Miguel De Allende I will be back! Actually I will be back next year as I was invited to speak at a seminar next year at the El Instituto Allende on a talk on artisans and the lost arts which I will let you know when I have dates.
I hope you enjoyed my photo album of San Miguel de Allende. I had such a lovely time I took over 800 pictures so doing this edit wasn’t easy. I will have this week a video on our YouTube channel on an artisan walk through town. I do encourage you to visit if you appreciate artisan craftsmanship, beautiful architecture, good food, mezcal, amazing weather and friendly people.
By Natalie Rivera
